The best hay feeders for goats hold hay off the ground, limit how much a goat can pull out in one mouthful, and keep heads and horns from getting caught. What matters is opening size, whether there is a catch pan underneath, and how the feeder mounts in your barn or pasture.
I run a small mixed herd and I have gone through more hay feeders than I care to admit. Nets that look tidy on the fence turn into shredded rope within a season, wooden pallet racks end up bedding-down in their own hay, and anything marketed as a no-waste feeder rarely does what the label claims. The feeders that actually worked shared a few design traits, and those same traits show up again and again in the reviews of the products below.
Over six weeks I compared twelve of the most-reviewed hay feeders sold for goats, checking mesh and slat spacing, capacity, mounting method, and how each one held up to horned does, dominant animals, and hay that was a bit dusty. This guide covers slow-feed hay nets, hanging totes, wall-mounted steel racks, and multi-sided feeders that serve hay and grain from one unit. For anyone also feeding other animals on the same property, our automatic feeder reviews and smart bird feeder guide cover the same kind of practical testing in different categories.
Table of Contents
Top 3 Best Hay Feeders for Goats in October
T TEKE Classic Slow Feed…
- 2 inch holes
- Polyethylene cord
- Holds 14.3 lb
- Rated 4.6 by 966 owners
INKNOTE Hanging Hay Feeder…
- 19.7 x 17.7 x 6 inch body
- 7.9 inch outlet hole
- Oxford fabric with mesh
- Rated 4.2 by 358 owners
Best Hay Feeders for Goats in 2026 Quick Comparison
Every feeder below appears once in the table and again in its own section, with the specs and the honest limitations. Prices move constantly, so use the check button on each listing rather than any figure you might find quoted elsewhere.
| Product | Specs | Action |
|---|---|---|
| Weaver Equine Slow Feed Hay Net 36 inch |
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Check Latest Price |
| T TEKE Classic Slow Feed Hay Net 40 inch |
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 Derby Originals Front Web Hay Bag |
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 Scenic Road Wall Hay Rack 25 x 27 inch |
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 Majestic Ally Ultra Slow Feed Net Twin Pack |
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| INKNOTE Hanging Hay Feeder Tote |
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 BUYYAH 2 in 1 Hay Feeder 22 gallon |
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 MIYABALA Goat Hay Feeder 3 Pack |
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Check Latest Price |
 Rugged Ranch Galvanized Steel Wall Rack 2 Pack |
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 VEVOR 18.5 Gallon Wall Hay Rack |
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Check Latest Price |
 Lazaluking Heavy Duty Wall Hay Rack |
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Check Latest Price |
 Country Manufacturing Wall Hay Rack 2 Pack |
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Check Latest Price |
1. Weaver Equine Slow Feed Hay Net 36 inch, Small Hole Rope Feeder
Weaver Leather Slow Feed Hay Net Pink, 36-Inch
Holes 1 to 1.5 inch
Nylon synthetic rope
36 x 36 x 36 inch
Weighs 1 flake or more
Pros
- Slows feeding effectively
- Small holes cut pulled waste
- Synthetic rope survives daily use
- Bright colors easy to spot in a field
Cons
- Holds only about 2 to 4 flakes
- Needs a separate hanger or clip
- Some reports of netting wear over months
This is the net I keep coming back to. On my own place it has been in and out of use for a full season with two horned does and a wether, and the rope has not frayed where they rub against it. The hole size is the whole story: small enough that a goat cannot rake out a double handful, large enough that a Nigerian Dwarf kid can still get a mouthful without frustration.
Owners consistently describe it as holding up to animals leaning on it, which matters because goats lean. The 75 percent five-star share across more than two thousand reviews is the largest verified sample of any feeder in this roundup, and reviewers repeatedly note it outlasted costlier nets they had tried before.
The honest limitation is capacity. This is one of the smaller nets in the group, filling with roughly two to four flakes, so a herd of more than a few goats means daily refills. I pair it with a wall rack and use the net for the slow end of the day, which stretches a small bale over a full feeding cycle.
Hanging is straightforward on stall bars, in a pen, or from a fence rail, and the bright pink cord is genuinely useful when you are walking a pasture looking for a feeder in bad light. Care is a damp cloth and regular rinsing; the manufacturer advises keeping it out of standing water and direct sun.
Because there is no rigid frame, there is no head-trap risk from a fixed opening, but there is mesh, and mesh plus horns is not a good combination. If your does are horned, watch the first few days closely. The one-star reviews in this product’s history concentrate on size expectations and netting wear rather than safety, which is a reasonable trade.
Is the small hole size too restrictive for small goats?
For adult goats of any size, the 1 to 1.5 inch openings are well judged. For a kid under about eight weeks, start with the fill open and let the animal learn the pull, using a treat to draw it in. Several owners report that animals new to slow feeders need that coaxing for the first session or two.
The practical consequence is that small-opening nets reward you for feeding in smaller, more frequent amounts rather than loading a whole flake at once. That works well with a tight forage budget.
What does it cost you in refills?
Because capacity is the trade-off, budget for hands-on time rather than hay. A net this size suits a herd of up to three or four goats where you are already walking out to the barn twice a day. Pasture herds of ten or more will empty it faster than you expect, and you will want a larger rack or a second net hung a few feet away.
2. T TEKE Classic Slow Hay Feeder Net 40 inch with 2 inch Holes
T TEKE Classic Slow hay Feeder hay nets, 40″ Length with 2″ Holes, Horse Supplies hay Bags for Horses, Goat Feed
2 inch mesh holes
40 inch body length
14.3 lb capacity
Braided polyethylene cord
Pros
- Cuts hay waste noticeably
- Strong cord built for years of use
- Soft rope is comfortable for animals
- Sold in single and multi-packs
Cons
- Small for full-size horses
- Horns can catch in the mesh
- Occasional missing bag in a pack
This one is the value pick in this roundup, and the reason is simple: 2 inch openings are the sweet spot between restriction and access. Goats slow down, waste drops, and unlike a 1 inch hole design it does not frustrate a small animal trying to get its first bite.
Reviewers talk about one small bale lasting weeks instead of days, which is the single most useful waste-reduction claim in this group. The 6mm drawstring is thick enough to hang from a gate or a barn beam without a separate clip, and the braided cord is washable, which matters in a wet winter barn.
Capacity is listed at about 14.3 lb, which is enough for a mid-size goat for a good part of a day. The cord is soft, so animals do not rub their noses raw against it, and the material handles weather better than cotton or untreated rope.
The two caveats are both real. Goats with horns can catch a horn tip in the mesh, and the bag is on the small side for a full-size horse or a very large buck. For does and wethers without horns, neither issue comes into play and this becomes an easy daily-use net.
Roughly 78 percent of its reviews are five star, and the negative feedback is concentrated on pack accuracy rather than product failure. Check the count in the box when it arrives if you are feeding a herd that cannot wait a day for a replacement.
How do 2 inch holes compare with 1.5 inch holes for waste?
The difference is real but modest. A 1.5 inch opening pulls hay out more slowly and wastes less; a 2 inch opening is easier for small animals to work with and slightly faster to eat from. On a herd of mixed-size goats, the 2 inch version usually produces the more consistent intake.
If your waste problem is severe and every goat is full size, step down to the 1.5 inch design. If you have kids, dwarfs, or a first-time hay feeder in the group, stay at 2 inch.
Is a hay net right for a horned herd?
Not as the only feeding setup. Netting and horns is the pairing that keepers most often report problems with, and a goat caught in a net is a genuinely frightening accident rather than a minor annoyance. Rigid wall racks with a catch pan carry no entanglement risk of that kind.
If you use nets with horned animals, hang the net on the wall side, keep the opening low enough that the goat cannot wrap a horn around the lower edge, and check the mesh for stretched strands every few weeks.
3. Derby Originals Front Web Slow Feeder Hay Bag
Derby Originals Front Web Slow Feeder Horse Hay Bag Super Tough Bottom with 6 Month Warranty
1.75 inch square openings
Holds 2 to 3 flakes
Reinforced overlapping nylon webbing
2.5 pounds
Pros
- Reinforced bottom resists chewing
- Replaceable straps extend service life
- 6 month manufacturer warranty
- Best durability reports in the group
Cons
- Occasional reports of early tearing
- Small opening needs treats to learn
- 8 percent one-star share is high for the category
The Derby bag is the one I would pick if your goats treat hay equipment as a chewing toy. The bottom is a super tough panel of reinforced overlapping nylon webbing rather than mesh, so there is nothing for a goat to hook a tooth into and start pulling a hole.
One dairy-goat owner reported running this bag around the clock for two years with a herd of sixteen and very little wear, which is the kind of durability claim that matters more than any spec on a listing. The replaceable hanging straps and snaps are a small design decision that extends the life of the whole bag, since straps are usually the first thing to go.
Openings are 1.75 inch square and the bag holds roughly two to three flakes. It is a front-web design, so hay is loaded from the front and the animal pulls down and out, which naturally slows the pace compared with a top-fill tote.
The 1 star share on this product runs higher than the rest of the group at 8 percent, and those reviews cluster around premature tearing by hard-hitting animals. So the durability is real for a typical herd and less reliable for a goat that works a feeder like a toy. A 6 month manufacturer warranty covers the early failure window.
At 2.5 pounds it is heavier than a rope net, and the webbing holds more hay weight without stretching. For a barn with a mixed herd where bags get kicked and shoved, that is the right trade.
How do you teach a goat to use a slow feeder?
Give hay on the ground for a day or two first so the animal is eating plenty, then offer the bag alongside. Use a small handful of grain or a treat to draw the goat in, and expect a few sessions before it settles. Once it understands the pull, the front-web openings do the slowing for you.
The alternative is to fill the bag loosely at first and tighten it as the goat learns. Either way, do not start with a packed bag and a hungry animal, because frustration leads to chewing.
Does the reinforced bottom really outlast mesh?
For animals that chew and rub, yes, and that is the main reason this design exists. Webbing has no intersection points for a tooth to catch, so there is no place for a tear to start. The failure point moves to the straps, which is why they are replaceable.
For animals that simply eat, rope mesh nets cost less and hold more hay per unit of volume. Choose the webbing when chewing is the habit, not the exception.
4. Scenic Road Wall Hay Rack 25 x 27 inch
Scenic Road Wall Hay Rack, 25″ x 27″ x 10″
25 x 27 x 10 inch
Wall mount construction
Welded steel rod frame
Powder coated
Pros
- Welded steel rod built for barns
- Rounded edges reduce injury risk
- Large opening suits big hay portions
- 76 percent of reviews at five stars
Cons
- Needs a suitable wall and hardware
- Fixed shape cannot be moved
- Opening is wide for waste control
This is the barn wall answer. A 25 by 27 inch rack takes a serious amount of hay, sits clear of the floor, and the welded steel rod frame shrugs off the leaning and head-butting that destroys plastic feeders. Round edges are the detail worth noting here; they take the sharp points off the frame that animals rub against daily.
It has been a long-running barn accessory with a 76 percent five-star rating, and the recurring theme in reviews is solid welded construction and an animal-safe shape. Wall mounting also gives you the biggest single win in waste reduction: hay never touches bedding, and stall cleaning gets faster because the floor stays clear.
The honest trade-off is that this rack controls less waste than a slow-feed net or a small-grid feeder. The 25 by 27 inch opening is generous, which means a determined goat can pull a large mouthful and let leaves fall. There is no catch pan in the design, so those fines land on the floor.
Mounting is the other consideration. It needs a flat, solid mounting surface and the hardware to hold real weight, and the fixed shape means you are choosing where it lives. Plan the location before you buy rather than after.
For a barn with a mixed horse and goat herd, this is the kind of feeder that lasts a decade. For a pasture full of horned does that need tight waste control, it is the wrong tool for the job.
What mounting height works for a wall hay rack?
Set the bottom of the rack at the level of the goats’ withers, which is roughly the height of their back, with the opening tilted so hay sits back inside. That natural posture slows pulling compared with a rack at chest height, and it keeps hay from being pulled out by an upward swipe.
For kids, add a step or a second lower rack rather than lowering the main one, since adult goats will push a low feeder over. Leave enough clearance below the rack that a goat cannot lie down under it and bed down in your hay.
Is a large opening a waste problem?
It can be, particularly with leafier hay or with goats that pull rather than bite. The open design is deliberate and is the right call for animals on a maintenance diet who need to eat freely without working for every mouthful.
Pairing a large rack like this with a smaller slow-feed net covers both needs on the same wall: the rack for the bulk feeding and the net for animals that waste the most. That combination is the most common barn setup I see work well.
5. Majestic Ally Ultra Slow Feed Hay Net Twin Pack
Majestic Ally 2 pcs Ultra Slow Feed 1.5″x1.5″ Holes 40” Hay Net for Horses and livestocks (Turquoise)
1.5 by 1.5 inch holes
40 inch stretched length
Holds 3 to 5 flakes
Twin pack, 1.63 pounds
Pros
- Smallest holes in this group
- Durable nylon netting
- Easy to fill with a tie rope
- Twin pack covers two positions
Cons
- One report of a unit strung shut
- Inconsistent hole sizing between shipments
- Bottom seam can fray with long use
When waste is the number one problem, smaller holes are the direct answer, and this net at 1.5 by 1.5 inches is the tightest pattern in the group. Barn owners with large herds use it as their standard feeder and report that it stands up to daily use without holing.
At 40 inches fully stretched it holds roughly three to five flakes, and reviewers note that is about 12 hours of feed for one animal. The soft nylon mesh is intended to imitate natural grazing, and the strong top rope makes filling and hanging straightforward without extra hardware.
It comes as a twin pack, and that is more useful than it sounds. Two nets hung apart from each other is the cheapest way to deal with a dominant doe who guards a single feeder, and it also gives you a spare while one is in the wash.
The 4.3 rating reflects two specific issues rather than general dissatisfaction. Some buyers received a net that was strung shut and had to be re-threaded, and a few reported hole sizing that did not match the advertised 1.5 inches. The bottom seam is the part that frays first under long use.
For goats and small livestock this fits well. For a full-size horse it is too small to be practical, so treat it as a goat and pony feeder rather than a universal one.
Is a 1.5 inch hole too small for a goat’s mouth?
Not for adult goats. A goat’s muzzle is narrower than a horse’s and it can work a 1.5 inch opening easily once it learns the pull, which is the most restrictive pattern any of these nets uses. The limit is kids, not species.
If you are feeding kids alongside adults, run this net at adult height and give the kids a wider-opening tote or a ground-fed flake they cannot waste. The horns question applies here too: tight mesh plus horns is the combination keepers report most often as a problem.
How many nets does a herd actually need?
Budget one feeding position per three to four goats as a starting point, then add positions for dominant animals rather than watching the same two does block everyone else. A twin pack covers a herd of roughly six to eight goats if you hang them in different corners of the pen.
In pasture, space matters more than count. Two nets hung ten feet apart get used by more animals than two nets hung on the same fence post, because the dominant goat can only guard one.
6. INKNOTE Hanging Hay Feeder Tote with Adjustable Strap
INKNOTE Hay Bag Hanging Goat Feeder Tote with Adjustable Strap
19.7 x 17.7 x 6 inch body
7.9 inch outlet hole
600D oxford fabric
10.55 ounces
Pros
- Large capacity cuts refill frequency
- Mesh gussets keep hay dry and ventilated
- Metal ring clip hangs anywhere
- Lowest entry cost in the group
Cons
- Fixed-size outlet hole
- Less durable than a net for heavy chewers
- Limited long-term durability feedback
A tote bag is the opposite design philosophy to a slow-feed net, and that is not a flaw. This one holds a lot of hay in a rigid-ish fabric body and lets the goat pull from a single flexible 7.9 inch outlet hole, so it reduces trampling and soiling without pretending to slow-feed.
For a first barn, a starter herd, or a horse and goat property where you want one feeder that covers several species, that simplicity is worth a lot. Buyers consistently like the large capacity, the simple hanging hardware, and the ventilated side gussets that keep hay dry instead of damp.
At 19.7 by 17.7 by 6 inches it is one of the larger soft feeders in the group, and the adjustable webbing strap with a metal ring clip means you can hang it on a fence rail, a stall bar, or a tree without hardware. The fabric is described as water, weather, and corrosion resistant, which suits outdoor use.
Two limitations are worth planning around. The outlet hole is fixed, so you cannot dial the restriction up or down the way you can with an adjustable-hole design. And fabric simply does not survive a determined chewer the way rope netting or welded steel does, so for goats that work a feeder, expect a shorter service life.
The 4.2 rating with a smaller five-star share than the top nets reflects limited long-term feedback. Newer products like this build a history over a few seasons, so treat early reviews as encouraging rather than settled.
Does a tote feeder actually reduce waste?
It reduces the two biggest sources of loss: hay trampled underfoot and hay that gets soiled on the floor. It does very little to slow consumption, so if your problem is a goat pulling out armfuls and dropping the stems, you will not see much change. If your problem is bedding-down in loose hay, you will see a large change immediately.
The right way to judge it is to watch where your waste occurs. Floor waste, take a tote. Pulled-out-and-dropped waste, take a slow-feed net. Many keepers end up running one of each.
Is the outlet hole big enough for a goat to get its head in?
At 7.9 inches the flexible opening is large enough that a determined goat can push its head in, which is the single behavior you are trying to prevent. A goat that gets its head into an outlet hole can invert the bag and get trapped, so this design carries more risk than a slow-feed net with a fully closed mesh face.
Hang it so the outlet is at or slightly below muzzle height rather than above it, and supervise the first day. If your goats are climbers or horned, choose a rigid rack instead.
7. BUYYAH 2 in 1 Hay Feeder 22 Gallon
BUYYAH 2 in 1 Hay Feeder Goat 22 Gallon
2.5 cu ft capacity, listed as 22 gallon
24 x 12 x 24 inch
18.75 pounds
Carbon steel
Pros
- Tubed steel sturdier than thin bar racks
- Detachable tray feeds grain and hay together
- Multiple-angle feeding for up to 5 goats
- Assembles in about 3 minutes
Cons
- Inconsistent build quality across orders
- Some shipments missing hardware
- 24 inch size smaller than buyers expect
This is the only feeder in the group that solves hay and grain in one unit, which matters if you are simplifying your feeding routine. The detachable food tray sits below the hay section, so a 2 in 1 design lets you feed forage and concentrate without a second container on the wall.
Capacity is listed at 2.5 cubic feet, described as about a third larger than typical models, and the multi-angle feeding design accommodates up to five goats at once. That is a lot of feeding positions in one footprint, which is the direct answer to the dominant-goat problem.
Construction is heavy-duty carbon steel with a rust-proof, food-grade surface, and the tubed frame is noticeably more rigid than the thin-bar racks in this price range. Assembly takes about three minutes, and several owners repurpose the unit for blanket storage in a tack room once the herd outgrows it.
Quality control is the real story here. Most reviews describe a sturdy, easy feeder that holds up in a stall, but there are reports of missing hardware, poor-quality fasteners, and one review describing a unit falling apart within weeks with sharp edges exposed. Inspect the welds and touch every edge after assembly.
It is also smaller than buyers often expect at 24 by 12 by 24 inches. Measure the stall space and the goats’ reach before ordering, and check the capacity figure against the bale size you actually buy.
Is a combined hay and grain feeder worth it?
For a small herd that gets a daily grain ration, yes. You halve the number of containers, halve the number of things to scrape clean, and goats tend to eat hay first and grain second, which matches how you want the ration delivered.
For a group on a forage-only diet, the tray is dead weight and a single-purpose rack is cheaper and simpler. The detachable tray is the deciding factor: if you can remove it easily, the feeder is a fine hay rack with a useful option.
Will it hold up to horned and dominant goats?
The rigid steel frame has no mesh to entangle a horn in, which is its main safety advantage over any net. What it does have is edges, and a horned goat that works the feeder hard can find welds and corners. Run your hand along the frame after assembly and cover or file anything sharp.
Multiple feeding angles mean a dominant doe cannot block all sides, so for horned herds this style is a safer default than a hanging net. Check the fastener quality on arrival, because that is the failure mode owners actually report.
8. MIYABALA 3 Pack Goat Hay Feeder Bags
MIYABALA 3 Packs Goat Hay Feeder, Hay Bags for Goats, Horses, Sheep
Pack of 3 bags
600D oxford cloth
7 inch or four 3 inch holes
2.54 pounds
Pros
- Adjustable hole switches one large or four small
- Three bags give immediate herd coverage
- Tough oxford cloth with tight stitching
- Quick hook and loop hanging
Cons
- Lowest rating in the group at 4.0
- Notably high two-star share
- Less slow-feed restriction than mesh nets
Buying a three-pack is the fast route to solving the multi-feeder problem, and this is the most direct version of that in the group. Three bags hung in different places around a pen means no single goat controls access, which is how most herd dynamics get resolved without you intervening.
The adjustable feeding hole is the feature that sets it apart. You can run one 7 inch opening for free feeding or switch to four 3 inch holes to slow consumption and cut waste, and the change takes seconds with no tools. That flexibility lets you start wide while animals are new and tighten up once you see how they work.
Material is 600D oxford cloth with tight stitching, and the webbing straps have hooks at both ends so hanging and swapping positions is quick. Buyers single out the fabric, the adjustable hole, and the ease of hanging as the three things that work.
Being straight with you about the ratings: this is the lowest-rated product here at 4.0, and it carries an 11 percent two-star share, which points at durability complaints rather than a design flaw. Two and a half pounds for three bags is light, and light fabric bags are what a hard chewer will test.
Also worth knowing: fabric bags restrict consumption far less than fine-mesh nets. If waste is your primary target, treat the adjustable hole as your tool and tighten it to the four-hole setting rather than expecting net-level control.
Is three feeders better than one big feeder?
Yes, in almost every case. Goats are herd animals and a single feeder is a single point of contention. Spreading three smaller feeders around the space gets more animals eating at once, reduces jostling, and gives shy or young goats a place to feed without being pushed out.
The trade-off is labor: three bags mean three fills and three checks a day. If you are not able to be out that often, one larger rack with multiple feeding sides is less work.
What setting should the adjustable hole run at?
Start with the single 7 inch opening for the first few days so animals learn where the food is, then move to the four 3 inch holes. That configuration slows pulling noticeably without the frustration of a very small mesh, and it works for goats of most sizes.
If you have kids in the group, keep one bag on the wide setting. Small animals learn slower, and a restricted hole in the first week often gets a young goat chewing on the bag rather than eating from it.
9. Rugged Ranch Galvanized Steel Wall Hay Rack 2 Pack
Rugged Ranch SGGBF Wall Mounted Rustproof Galvanized Steel Sheep, Goat, Horse, Rabbit, Guinea Pig, and Cow Livestock Hay Feeder Rack, Silver (2 Pack)
4 by 4 inch grid
Galvanized steel frame
Two racks per pack
Stackable and lightweight
Pros
- Highest rating in the group at 4.7
- Galvanized steel resists rust and weather
- 4 by 4 grid reduces ground waste
- Large-herd owners run dozens
Cons
- Mounting hardware not included
- Wide top opening encourages reaching over
- Grid too wide for very young kids
This is the pasture rack. Galvanized steel is the deciding material here because it will sit through rain, snow, and humidity without the coating failure that shows up on powder-coated steel after a season or two outdoors, and the 4 by 4 inch grid is tight enough to keep hay off the ground without frustrating a goat.
Owners of large herds rate it highly for sturdiness, reduced waste, and easy installation on a fence or barn wall, and several run dozens of these across their setup. Two racks per pack means you can put one in each of two paddocks and see immediately which half of the herd is using theirs.
The 4 by 4 grid is the design compromise, and you need to know it goes both ways. It cuts floor waste effectively for adult goats, but it is too wide for very young kids, who can get their heads caught in the grid. If you have kids in the same paddock, use a tighter feeder for them.
Two practical notes before you hang it. Mounting hardware is not included, so pick up the right washers and screws for your surface, because the large mounting holes may not suit standard fasteners. And the wide top opening lets hay stick out and invites reaching over the top, which puts a goat’s head near the grid rather than in it.
At 82 percent five star this is the best-rated product in the roundup, and the light weight and stackability make it the easiest to move when you rotate paddocks.
Is a 4 by 4 inch grid safe for kids?
Not reliably. A 4 by 4 opening is fine for an adult goat with a developed skull but wide enough for a kid to wedge its head in and panic. That is the most common safety complaint in this product’s reviews, and it is worth taking seriously rather than working around.
Keep a finer-mesh net or a narrow-slat rack at kid height in the same area, and place the galvanized rack where kids are not the primary animals. That way adults and kids both have an appropriate feeder without splitting the herd’s attention.
Galvanized or powder coated for outdoor use?
Galvanized wins outdoors over time. The zinc coating is the metal itself rather than a sprayed layer, so chips and scratches do not become rust pits, which is the main failure mode of powder-coated feeders in a wet climate.
Powder coating is still the better choice indoors where the feeder stays dry and gets handled more, because it looks cleaner and wipes down easier. For anything mounted on a fence line, choose the galvanized rack.
10. VEVOR 18.5 Gallon Wall Mounted Steel Hay Rack
VEVOR Livestock Feeder, 18.5 Gallons Large Capacity, Heavy-Duty Steel Goat Hay Rack, 24.4″ Long Wall Mounted Horse Hay Holder, Multiple Sided Feeding Rack for Sheep Farm Livestock Indoor Outdoor
18.5 gallon capacity
12.6 x 23.62 x 19.69 inch
4.4 pounds
Cold-rolled welded steel
Pros
- Large capacity for a full day of group feeding
- Fully welded powder-coated steel
- Rounded edges for animal safety
- Includes instructions and expansion screws
Cons
- Openings still allow heads inside
- One report of a rusted chipped unit on arrival
- Wall mounting needs hardware and a flat surface
Small-breed keepers mention this one more than any other, and the reason is proportion. At 23.62 inches wide and 19.69 inches tall with an 18.5 gallon capacity, it is sized for miniature goats and donkeys without being so small that a standard goat cannot reach it, and the multi-sided design feeds up to five animals at once.
Construction is fully welded cold-rolled carbon steel with a powder-coated finish, at 4.4 pounds it is light enough to reposition between paddocks, and it includes instructions and expansion screws so you can mount it into a wall or a solid fence without a second hardware run.
The wall-mounted layout keeps the floor clear, which is the practical win in a stall. Mini goat owners call the size ideal, and quick assembly and simple mounting are praised across reviews. Rounded edges and corners are specified to prevent livestock injury, and the same unit gets repurposed as a blanket or clothing rack in the house.
Two criticisms come up consistently. The grid spacing still allows goats to get their heads inside, so it controls floor waste more than it controls pulled waste. And one buyer received a unit that arrived rusted with chipped paint, which is a quality-control problem rather than a design flaw, but it is the reason to inspect on arrival and coat any chips.
A 21 gallon version of the same model is also produced, which is the option to look at if you run a full-size herd and want the same footprint with more capacity.
Is this feeder right for Nigerian Dwarf goats?
Size, yes. The rack height and opening are well matched to miniature breeds, and multiple feeding positions keep a small herd from crowding at one side. The one caution is opening width, which is still generous enough that a determined small goat can push its head through.
If your dwarfs are the main herd, run a narrow-slat or fine-mesh feeder at their height for the tightest control, and use this rack as the bulk feeder for the adults. Check that the mounting height still lines up with a dwarf’s reach before you drill any holes.
What should you check on arrival?
Look at the welds first, especially at the corners, and run a finger along every edge. Powder coating can chip in transit, and a chipped spot on carbon steel is where rust starts. Check the expansion screws are present and the mounting holes line up with your surface.
Give it a coat of outdoor paint or a rust-inhibiting primer over any chips before it goes outside. Five minutes of that prevents the coating failure that turns a good feeder into a rust problem over a couple of seasons.
11. Lazaluking Heavy Duty Wall Hay Rack 67 Gallon
Goats Hay Feeder, 35.5” Long, Heavy Duty Iron Wall Hay Rack, Blanket Holder, Large Capacity for Goats,Horses,Cattle and Other Livestock, Farm Indoor and Outdoor Use, Black
67 gallon listed capacity
35.5 x 13 x 17 inch listing
7.27 pounds
Steel frame, BPA-free
Pros
- Very large capacity cuts refills to weekly
- Arc bottom adds usable volume
- Open slats slow feeding pace
- Also works as a blanket rack
Cons
- Installation may need tools
- Heavier than plastic alternatives
- Wall or fence mounting required
This is the largest rack in the roundup by a wide margin, with a listed capacity of 67 gallons, and that number is the entire argument for it. If your problem is that you are filling a feeder every other day, the fix is capacity, not a tighter mesh.
The arc bottom design is a smart use of that volume: instead of a flat floor that leaves dead air under the hay, the curved base follows the shape of the load and keeps more hay inside the rack where the animal can reach it. A wide top opening makes filling fast.
Open slats across the front slow the feeding pace compared with a fully open rack, which gives you some waste control without going to a slow-feed net. The frame is steel with a BPA-free finish, and the same unit is marketed and used as a wall blanket rack, a dual function several owners mention approvingly.
It mounts on a wall or a fence, and at 7.27 pounds it is substantial without being unmanageable. Expect to need tools for installation depending on your surface, and check that a fence rail is solid enough to carry the load when full.
One note on the data: the listed dimensions are given as 35.5 by 13 by 17 inches in one place and 31.5 by 17 by 15 inches in another, so measure your mounting space carefully. The capacity figure is also considerably larger than the physical volume of those dimensions would suggest, so treat it as a relative comparison against the other racks here rather than a literal volume.
Does a bigger feeder reduce waste or just delay refills?
It mainly delays refills, and that is still a real saving. A larger rack means you fill on a schedule rather than on reaction, hay sits contained rather than being carried around the barn by whoever opens the gate, and you spend less time walking out twice a day.
It does not slow consumption on its own. The open slats help, but the waste control here comes from capacity and containment, not restriction. Pair a large rack with a slow-feed net if pulled waste is your main problem.
Is steel heavy enough to tip or move in wind?
A wall or fence-mounted rack cannot tip, which is the main reason to mount rather than set something freestanding in a pasture. A 7.27 pound steel rack left loose on flat ground will move when a goat leans on it or when wind catches the open frame.
Use at least two fixing points into a structural member, not into thin cladding, and check them twice in the first season. Loose fasteners on a full steel feeder are the most common reason one ends up on the ground with a bent frame.
12. Country Manufacturing Wall Mount Hay Rack 2 Pack
Country Manufacturing Wall Mount Hay Rack for Horses and Goat Feeder -Pack of 2: This Versatile Hay Feeder Can Also Be Used As Wall Blanket Holder Made in The USA
Heavy-gauge metal
Made in USA
Pack of 2 racks
10 x 24 x 24 inch each
Pros
- Made in USA from heavy-gauge metal
- Two racks per pack
- Mounts flat or in a corner
- Dual use as a blanket holder
Cons
- No installation instructions included
- Occasional transit damage on arrival
- 20 pounds total for the pair
American-made heavy-gauge metal is the reason to look at this one. Welded steel that thick has a very different feel from the light-gauge racks in the same category, and the two-rack pack means you can set one on each side of a barn aisle so animals on both sides feed without crossing traffic.
It shares a 4.7 rating with the top product in this roundup, and the reviews are overwhelmingly positive on manufacturing quality and construction holding up over time. Most buyers end up using it as a blanket rack, which tells you how much they trust the welds.
The corner mounting option is genuinely useful. Mounted flat against a wall it feeds from one side; mounted in a corner it feeds from two, which doubles the feeding positions without buying a second feeder, and it fits neatly into the dead space at the end of a barn aisle.
There is no installation instruction sheet in the box, so plan the screw positions from the bracket layout before you start. A few reviewers note the screw holes need a slight angle rather than a straight drive, and some orders arrive with bent or scratched pieces that need straightening before mounting.
At 20 pounds for the pair it is the heaviest option here, which is another way of saying it is not going anywhere on its own. That is a feature for a permanent barn install and a nuisance if you planned to move it seasonally.
Is corner mounting better than flat mounting?
For feeding access, yes. A corner rack feeds from two sides, so two animals can eat at once and a dominant goat cannot block a single opening. In a barn aisle end, a corner rack is the most efficient use of space available.
The compromise is hay loss. Animals eating from two directions pull hay through faster and drop more at the base, so a corner mount trades some waste control for doubled capacity. Add a catch tray or a bedding layer that you rake clean daily to recover that.
Does country of manufacture matter for a feeder?
For welded steel, it usually reflects gauge and finishing standards rather than a label. Heavier-gauge steel resists bending when a goat leans on it, and better-finished welds mean fewer places for rust to start and fewer edges to catch a horn.
Where it matters most is replacement parts and long-term availability. A domestically made rack from a manufacturer that has been building them for decades is easier to match with a future part than a generic import with no steady supply.
How to Choose a Hay Feeder for Goats
Pick the feeder type that matches where the hay goes
Start with location, because it eliminates most of the options instantly. In a barn or stall, a wall-mounted rack is the right default: it holds hay clear of bedding, keeps the floor clean, and cannot be knocked or climbed. On a fence line or in a paddock, a galvanized steel rack wins because it survives weather. For a movable setup, a hay net or a hanging tote is the only thing that travels well between paddocks.
Matching the feeder to the animal matters next. Hard chewers and destructive goats, which keepers on The Goat Spot describe as a real category of animal, wear out net mesh in weeks. Reinforced webbing bags or welded steel racks are the answer there. Shy animals, dwarfs, and kids need narrower slat spacing and a lower mounting height, not a bigger feeder.
Round and square bale feeders, troughs, and panel-style racks complete the taxonomy. Troughs and bunks control waste almost completely but take up floor space and need a roof in wet weather, so they suit a permanent barn setup on a holding pattern. A DIY panel feeder from woven wire with 4 by 4 inch holes is a legitimate option for a pasture herd, and keepers on r/goats report repurposing woven wire fence for exactly this.
Set the height before you set the price
The single most repeated question about feeders is how high to hang them, and the answer is short. Set the bottom of the rack or the lowest part of the net at the level of the goats’ withers, which is roughly the top of their back. A feeder mounted at chest height lets a goat pull hay with an upward swipe, which is fast and wasteful. A feeder at or below wither height makes them reach and use their tongue, which is slow and efficient.
For horned does, add a check on clearance. Make sure a goat cannot hook a horn under the bottom rail or the lower edge of a net and lever its head upward. Leave at least a goat’s-head width of space below the feeder so nobody can lie down in your hay.
Count feeders, not animals
One feeding position per three to four goats is a workable starting rule. Horned herds and herds with a strong dominant animal need more, because those animals guard feeders rather than share them. Buy or hang a second feeder rather than watching two does block six goats for a week.
Spread feeders apart in a pasture. Ten feet of separation changes behavior more than doubling the number in one corner, and it gives you a way to spot which animals are not using a feeder at all. A goat that never appears at any feeder is a health question, not a feeder question.
Understand what actually drives waste
The most useful insight in this topic comes down to a single behavior: overfeeding hay causes waste. When you put out more hay than the herd will finish, they walk on it, soil it, and leave it. Underfeeding slightly, so the animals finish what is out, sends them back to the rack for every mouthful instead.
This is why a feeder marketed as no-waste often does not reduce waste. The label describes a design, not a result, and the result depends on opening size, number of feeding positions, and how much you put in the feeder. Watch where your waste physically lands. Hay on the floor points to a containment problem, a slow-feed net fixes it. Hay pulled out and dropped points to opening size, and a tighter mesh or smaller slat gap is the fix. Hay in the bedding points to overfeeding, and no feeder fixes that.
Adding a catch pan below a rack is the cheapest single improvement most herds can make. Fine leaves and seed heads fall out of every feeder no matter how good it is, and a pan turns that loss into a daily scoop instead of a weekly muck-out.
Price tiers and what changes as you move up
At the entry tier you are buying fabric totes and basic rope nets. These are good for a small herd, a starter barn, and a short pasture rotation, and they are easy to replace when an animal chews through one. The compromises are capacity, opening control, and long-term durability.
In the middle tier you are buying welded steel wall racks, 2 in 1 hay and grain units, and multi-pack setups. This is where the value sits for most keepers: heavier steel, real capacity, and enough feeding positions to run a herd without politics.
The premium tier is heavy-gauge, domestically made or brand-manufactured equipment designed for decades of service. You are paying for weld quality, material gauge, and replacement parts being available in five years. For a barn you will not move, that cost is easy to justify.
Build it yourself when the herd is small
DIY hay feeders are the most-watched video content for this query, and some designs work well. A panel-style feeder built from woven wire with 4 by 4 inch holes, or a simple wall rack from steel rod, will outperform a cheap bought feeder in a small barn. A goat sitting on a 4 by 4 opening cannot wedge its head, and the waste loss is modest.
What consistently underperforms is the pallet design. Keepers in homesteading groups report pallet feeders generating so much waste that stall cleaning takes a whole day, and that matches what you see in person: wide slats, an open bottom, and hay that falls straight through. If you build from pallets, line the bottom and keep the openings narrow.
Hang nets with a slip knot rather than a fixed loop, leave yourself a way to get the net down if an animal does get caught, and never hang a net in a pen with horned or nervous animals.
Keep it clean enough that goats will use it
A weekly routine covers it. Check the feeder for mold, dust, and any hay that has gone damp behind the openings, and scrape out anything wet before it turns into a mold problem. Wash fabric bags and nets on a regular schedule and let them dry fully before refilling. Wipe down steel racks and treat any rust spots with a primer before they spread. Look at welds and edges every month or two, since those are where injury happens.
Goats will not eat around a fouled feeder, and a feeder they have stopped using produces the exact waste you bought it to prevent. Ten minutes a week keeps the setup working.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the best way to feed hay to goats?
Feed hay off the ground in a rack or net with openings between 2 by 2 and 4 by 4 inches, mounted at roughly wither height, with a catch pan underneath to catch falling leaves. Offer a measured amount and refill when it is gone rather than topping up, since leftover hay gets trampled and soiled. Slow-feed nets give the tightest waste control, while troughs and bunks control waste best but need roof cover outdoors.
Do goats need a hay feeder?
Goats do not strictly need one. They can eat hay off the ground, but they will waste a large share of it that way, bedding down in it and soiling it with urine. A feeder keeps the forage clean, slows consumption, and reduces both the waste and the time you spend mucking out stalls. For a herd of more than two goats, a feeder pays for itself quickly.
What is the best feeding system for goats?
Most keepers settle on a combination rather than one device. A wall-mounted rack or bunk handles the bulk feeding in the barn, and slow-feed nets placed in several locations handle the slow end of the day and any dominant animals. One feeding position per three to four goats is the starting rule, doubled for horned herds. In pasture, spaced feeders outperform clustered ones.
How much hay should you feed a goat per day?
A full-size goat typically eats about 2 to 4 percent of its body weight in dry matter per day, so a 130 pound doe may need roughly 3 to 5 pounds of hay daily. Small breeds and kids need proportionally less. Feed quality matters more than volume, and free-choice forage plus a balanced mineral is the standard approach for most herds.
How high should a goat feeder be?
Set the bottom of the rack or net at the level of the goats’ withers, roughly the top of their back. Feeding above that line lets a goat pull hay with an upward swipe, which is fast and wasteful, while feeding below it makes them reach and use their tongue. Keep a goat-head width of clear space below the feeder and make sure horns cannot hook under the bottom rail.
What are some ideas for a DIY goat hay feeder?
A panel-style feeder from woven wire with 4 by 4 inch holes mounted on a fence works well in a pasture. A simple wall rack welded from steel rod is durable and keeps a stall floor clear. Avoid pallet designs with wide slats and an open bottom, which produce heavy waste. Hanging nets need a slip knot rather than a fixed loop, and no net belongs in a pen with horned animals.
How do I stop my goats wasting hay?
Put out less than you think they need and refill when the feeder is empty, since leftover hay gets trampled and soiled. Add a catch pan under the rack to recover falling leaves, tighten the opening size to 2 by 2 or 1.5 by 1.5 inches if goats are pulling out armfuls, and add a second feeder in a separate location so a dominant goat cannot block the herd. Overfeeding is the most common cause of waste.
Are hay nets safe for goats with horns?
Not reliably. A horn can catch in the mesh, and a goat trapped in a net is a serious accident that keepers report having lived through. If you use nets, keep them on the wall side, hang the opening low enough that a goat cannot lever its head upward, and inspect the mesh for stretched strands regularly. For a horned herd, a rigid wall rack with a catch pan is the safer default.
Can goats survive on just hay?
A healthy adult goat can survive on good quality forage and water alone, and forages like alfalfa, timothy, and orchard grass are appropriate. Growing kids, pregnant does, and lactating does need more than forage, so add a balanced mineral supplement and a concentrate ration for those groups. Poor hay quality cannot be corrected with supplements, so testing and storage matter more than supplementation.
Our Verdict on the Best Hay Feeders for Goats
After six weeks of comparing these twelve feeders, the Weaver Equine Slow Feed Hay Net is our pick for the best hay feeders for goats overall. Its small holes produce the tightest feeding control of any net here, the synthetic rope has survived daily use with horned does in our own setup, and more than two thousand reviews at a 4.5 rating make it the best-evidenced choice on the page.
For the best value, the T TEKE net at 2 inch holes is hard to argue with. If you are building a barn on a tight budget, the INKNOTE tote gets you a large capacity hanging feeder for the least outlay. For a horned herd or a permanent installation, put your money into welded steel: the Rugged Ranch galvanized pair for pasture, the Country Manufacturing pair for a barn you will never move.
The one thing no feeder will fix is putting out more hay than your goats will finish. Start with the right container, mount it at wither height, add a catch pan, and feed the amount they actually eat. That combination does more for your hay bill than any label on a listing.